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Turkish Recipes & Techniques

Seven Turkish Grills Worth Learning Before the Cold Really Sets In

Irmak BBQ
Seven Turkish Grills Worth Learning Before the Cold Really Sets In

Photo: Andy Li, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

There is a moment in late autumn — the light goes amber around four, the garden smells of wet leaves, and you find yourself standing by a hot grill with your coat collar up. It is, genuinely, one of the best times of year to cook over fire. The heat is welcome rather than oppressive and nobody is in a hurry to go back inside.

Autumn is also when a lot of UK cooks get stuck in a kebab rut: chicken or doner, chips, garlic sauce, done. Nothing wrong with it. But Turkish grilling at home is a much wider repertoire than the takeaway counter suggests, and most of it is easier than people expect.

You do not need a restaurant setup. A griddle pan, a grill setting on the oven, or a small mangal will all do the job. Here are seven to work through.

1. Adana-style lamb kebab

The gateway grill. The defining detail is not the chilli, it is the fat — you want lamb mince with roughly 20% fat, which most UK supermarkets sell as standard lamb mince. Lean mince will give you dry, crumbly kebabs that fall off the skewer.

Knead the mince with grated onion (squeeze the juice out first, or the mix turns wet), pul biber, salt and a little black pepper for a good five minutes. The mixture should feel sticky and slightly tacky. Rest it in the fridge for an hour, then mould it around flat metal skewers in a long, even sausage, pressing ridges into it with your fingers.

Hot, direct heat. Four to five minutes a side. If you are using a griddle pan, get it properly smoking before the meat goes anywhere near it.

2. Urfa kebab

The quieter sibling of Adana. Same technique, less heat: mild Urfa pepper instead of the sharper pul biber, sometimes a little cumin. It is the one to make for people who claim they do not like spicy food, and it is superb with a scoop of plain yoghurt and flatbread.

Urfa pepper is easy to find online or in Turkish grocers. If you cannot get it, a mix of sweet paprika and a pinch of pul biber will not be identical but will not disappoint either.

3. Chicken shish

Undersold and over-dry in most British attempts. The fix is a yoghurt marinade — full-fat yoghurt, lemon juice, crushed garlic, a spoon of tomato purée, olive oil and pul biber — for at least four hours, ideally overnight. The acid and dairy tenderise without turning the meat to mush.

Use thigh fillets, not breast. Cut them into roughly even 3cm chunks so they cook at the same rate, and do not crowd the skewer. Six to seven minutes over medium-high heat, turning once or twice, is usually right.

4. Spicy wings

Probably the best value grill in the whole list. A big pack of wings costs very little, and they are almost impossible to ruin. Toss them in pul biber, paprika, garlic, olive oil, salt and a squeeze of lemon, then cook them over a slightly gentler part of the grill for longer — fifteen to twenty minutes, turning often.

If you are using an oven, a hot grill tray on the top shelf with the door slightly ajar works well. Watch them at the end; the sugar in the paprika catches fast.

5. Liver, wrapped in caul fat if you can get it

This is the one that divides the room, and the one people convert to. Lamb liver, cut into chunks, dusted with flour, salt and cumin, grilled hot and fast so the outside chars while the middle stays just pink. Two minutes a side is plenty — overcooked liver is a punishment, not a dish.

Ask a butcher for caul fat and wrap each piece; it bastes the liver as it melts and keeps everything juicy. If that is a step too far for a Tuesday, plain works fine.

6. Hellim or halloumi

No marinade, no technique, no stress. Slice it about a centimetre thick, pat it dry, and put it straight on the bars or in a dry pan. It will squeak, it will char, it will be gone before it reaches the table.

A little dried mint and a squeeze of lemon is all it asks. Turkish hellim is often a touch saltier than the supermarket halloumi, so taste before you season anything else on the plate.

7. Grilled vegetables, done with intent

Aubergines, long green peppers, tomatoes, onions. The mistake is cutting them too small — big halves and whole peppers hold their shape and char properly instead of steaming.

Aubergines want to be blistered until the skin is blackened and the flesh collapses, then peeled and mashed with olive oil, lemon and garlic. Peppers want to be blistered whole and peeled. Onions want to be quartered, skewered so they do not fall apart, and cooked slowly at the edge of the heat until sweet.

Two practical notes

Timing matters more than kit. Lamb kebabs and liver want fierce, direct heat and short cooking. Chicken, wings and vegetables want a slightly cooler zone and a bit of patience. If you only have one heat level, cook in the order: meat first while the fire is at its hottest, vegetables last as it dies down.

Salt your mince properly. Under-seasoned kebabs are the single most common home failure, and no amount of sauce at the table fixes it.

Where to shop

Supermarkets will cover the lamb, chicken and halloumi comfortably. For pul biber, Urfa pepper, dried mint and decent flatbread, a Turkish grocer is worth the trip — you will pay less and get better. Buy more flatbread than you think you need. You always need more flatbread.

One grill, seven ideas, and a dark evening that feels considerably better than it did an hour ago. That is the whole point.

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